By: Jean-Paul Courville
The Republic of Slovenia is a relatively small country in the Balkans. Its one of the successor states of the former Yugoslavia, bordered by Italy, Austria, Hungary, Croatia, and the Adriatic Sea. The mountains, rivers, and lakes feel like something out of a fairy-tale. From the capital of Ljubljana to the gorgeous Soca River and the Julian Alps it is a must visit destination. I journeyed here in August of 2019 and the weather was pleasant, averaging 22 degrees Celsius (72 F) cool in the morning and evenings but warm during the mid day sun. The food was wonderful, pastries a delight and the people were very friendly.
Lake Bohinj
My first day was in the quaint small town of Lake Bohinj which is the largest permanent lake in Slovenia. Bohinj is not as busy or crowded as the more popular Lake Bled. It offers outdoor cafes, restaurants, swimming on the lake, or renting a boat it is a tranquil place to sit and observe nature.
Lake Bohinj was the starting point of my four day trekk thru the Julian Alps of Triglav National Park.
Hiking Mt Triglav (Julian Alps)
I have fantasized about visiting the Julian Alps for years, from the recent photos and stories I have read about or to when it was Yugoslavia it has forever intrigued me. Mt Triglav is the highest peak at 2,864 M (9,396 Feet), it requires gear on a Via Ferrata to make the summit. I hiked to a different Mountain Hut each evening for four total days completing my journey thru the Triglav National Park. The days varied in time, distance, and terrain for example one day hiking was 10 hours and 20 kilometers and another was 8 hours for 18 kilometers. The park has some of the most spectacular views including the valley of the seven lakes. The Mountain Huts within Europe are something I have become quite fond of. Imagine it, arriving to a secluded mountain accommodation after a long physical day, arranging your equipment, taking a shower if available, sitting down for dinner with fellow hikers in a family style setting, then preparing your equipment for the following day is a culture all to itself. I have been fortunate as an American to have been in numerous locations around Europe, these style huts don't exist in the USA and I have my personal reasons why they would either be successful or a complete failure. I don't cross paths with many Americans but this time I ran into an American family, they were awe-inspiring. A family from Northern California, a mother, a father, a son, and a daughter who have taken many annual trips similar to this. The two children informed me one morning how they have turned down spring break trips with their fellow students back home so they can travel and experience the world as a family. I admire that immensely, bravo....Outdoor life cures many ailments and illuminates your goals.
Triglav Continued
The morning I climbed to the summit (Triglav) and hiked thru the Valley of the seven lakes the fog was so thick and enduring thru the day I could only see one hand grabbing the cable as I was clipped in. Frustrating but as time went on there was a mystical feeling thru the day, I didn't see many hikers along the trail and some of the routes felt as though a troll or ferry would be leaping from behind a tree. The following day the fog lifted and the colors around were magnified tenfold. I finally made it to Krnsko Jezero Lake , nature paints the narrative.
The Soca River
The Soca River is by far the most appealing and gorgeous river I have seen thus far. On my last day hiking out of Triglav I arrived to the Soca River and followed it to the town of Bovec. I found a beautiful waterfall leading just above the river, I thought I was alone but quickly I was greeted by a couple, they were naked, drinking wine, and showed me no interest as they were swimming in the gorgeous clear pool in front of the waterfall. Bovec is a small yet lovely town known for white water rafting and an atmosphere to admire.
The following morning I arrived to meet my whitewater rafting guide and team. Let me tell you the story of my river guide, I will call him "Johnny Ringo". I see all of these river guides wearing company attire, assembled and easy to identify. When I met Johnny Ringo he was wearing board shorts, no shirt, displaying multiple scars, numerous tattoos, stands 6’4, has a ZZ Top Beard, he is from Holland. He had served in the Army then became a mountain guide in Italy before running into trouble with the local authorities. He fled to Slovenia with his girlfriend where he is now a river guide and a bartender in the town of Bovec. J. Ringo is wearing a tactical military helmet instead of a standard rafting safety helmet with his blood type annotated on the back. While speaking to our team he paused and said "let me jump in the cold river to get rid of this hangover" I could see the confusion in everyone’s face and almost an uncertainty if he was for real. I told him as he emerged from the water "you're my guy, lets go!” We had such a good time talking "smack" and laughing along the rapids. Later that evening in Bovec I ran into Johnny Ringo and his girlfriend, he introduced me as “JP the crazy American”. I liked him a great deal.
Peace and tranquility along the Soca River.
Lake Bled
It appears that at every location in Slovenia so far I have described it as being magnificent, tranquil, and that there is nothing like it. Well, its true and Lake Bled is something you would read about in a romantic novel, a true masterpiece in amazement. A picturesque environment surrounded by mountains and forests. Bled Castle rises above the lake on the Northern shore while Bled Island sits in the middle of the lake with the "Assumption of Mary" church (a pilgrimage church) on the island. The history of the area is intriguing while taking a bike ride around the lake, a boat to the island and enjoying the famous Bled Cake as a refreshment will make you question why you aren't staying longer than planned.
Ljubljana
Ljubljana is Slovenia's capital and largest city. The curving Ljubljanica River, lined in outdoor cafes, divides the city's old town from its commercial hub. Ljubljana has many museums, including the National Museum of Slovenia, displaying historic exhibitions, and the Museum of Modern Art, home to 20th-century Slovene paintings and sculptures. I adore those quaint outdoor cafes and cobble stone streets, they provide so much character to a city. I suggest grabbing gelato on a cone then take a walk about the city, you will fall in love.
Bonus: The "Smelly Boot Insoles of Triglav" SBIT
When I arrived into Bovec from hiking in the Julian Alps my boots had an awful smell. I scrubbed them with hot water and soap then air dried them in the sun yet the odor still destroyed the entire block. I told my rafting team about the shoes, they said "no problem just throw them in the back of the van for the ride to the river". I went for a quick coffee but when I came back the boots where outside of the van, Johnny Ringo told me "man you could kill a cow with those". We had a long ride back thru Italy and back into Slovenia later and I could only think of one way to defeat this culprit.
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