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Writer's pictureJean-Paul Courville

Discovering Oman

Updated: May 3, 2020

Oman


by: Jean-Paul Courville


I am an American Expat living in the United Arab Emirates (UAE). The allure of cities (Emirates) like Dubai and Abu Dhabi are globally recognized but when in desire of outdoor adventure the neighboring country of Oman GCC (Gulf Cooperation Council) has it all.


I first visited Oman with a group of hikers while camping in late 2014 as we brought in the new year with 2015 on an extended weekend getaway. My journeys here have been in small groups, large groups, alone, and by hosting friends on weekend excursions. From the northern tip of Musandam (above the UAE) to the southern area of Salalah and all in between providing you with elaborate mountains, the sea, fresh waterfalls, wild camping, and an historic Arabian culture. I have continued to travel here many times a year since my first visit, here are some of my highlights:


Wadi Al Arbeieen


My favorite is Wadi Al Arbeieen with "The Secret Waterfall". Its not populated with tourist, much more difficult to get to and earning the view is worth it. Located 90 kilometers from Muscat with a 7 kilometer drive off road to a small village with beautiful wadis and clear water but to get to the secret waterfall you need to lace up your hiking boots, grab some water protective bags and set off on a 2.5 hour hike one way to the waterfall and back again. You will negotiate thru palm groves, scramble over large boulders, swim thru long stretches of clear turquoise water patterned against the desert colored rocks, and climb ropes until you reach the large flowing waterfall flowing over green vegetation reaching out from the cliff faces. Spend some quality time swimming and diving in the beautiful Wadi pool in front of the waterfall.


Jebel Shams


Jebel Shams is the highest peak in Oman at 3028 meters (9934 feet), part of the Al Hajar Mountains, and known as the Grand Canyon of the Middle East. The views are amazing as you drive from the base of the valley near the town of Al Hamra. There are wonderful opportunities for wild camping (no permits and wherever you choose) with two major hike routes: the first is referred to as the "balcony hike" a three hour round trip hike route along the balcony with the best views of the canyon. This hike starts at an old village with goat farmers, taking you along the canyon with some elevation gain to a "ghost village" used by local Omanis from another era. The second is known as the main "big hike", 9-11 hours round trip with a tremendous elevation gain, not for the feint of heart. Many have used this route in their preparation for climbing higher elevation summits like Mt Kilimanjaro. #jebelshams

Salalah


Salalah is near the border of Oman and Yemen, known for its banana plantations, Arabian Sea beaches and waters full of sea life. The Khareef, an annual monsoon, transforms the desert terrain into a lush, green landscape and creates seasonal waterfalls. The Frankincense (yes Frankincense) Land Museum and trail, recounts the city’s maritime history and role in the spice trade. Hiking in the outskirts of the Dhofar Mountains feel as if you were in an Indiana Jones novel. #salalah

Wadis Shab and Tiwi


These two Wadis are located next to each other (one hour and 30 minute drive from Muscat), along the coast on the Gulf of Oman yet they each present different experiences.


Wadi Shab is the more known and touristy spot, pull your car under a bridge, park, pay a small fee for local Omani boatmen to take you across the lake to the starting point on the opposite side. You will hike 30 minutes to the beginning of the water portion of the Wadi, from here you swim and hike for 20-30 minutes where you then arrive at the "eye of the needle" a small opening thru the rocks. You swim thru a narrow opening where it then opens into a large cave with a rushing waterfall. It is your own private pool and swimming hole, you can swim under the waterfall and dive to roughly 10 meters. If you go mid to late in the day you will share it with large groups, go early, and bring goggles. #wadishab

Wadi Tiwi is next to Wadi Shab, you will drive into the canyon and park in a local village or you can drive up and around the top of the Wadi for a longer hike that requires overnight camping, rappelling equipment and logistical coordination for vehicles when completed. Wadi Tiwi is less touristy, in fact I have gone on many occasions where you scramble over boulders, dive into swimming holes, leap from rocks and I didn't see anyone else the entire day. #waditiwi

*Bonus, along the small town of Fins, Oman on the coast is a perfect place to camp and visit all of these locations including the tourist site Bimmah Sink Hole. #oman

Jebel Akhdar "The Green Mountains"


Visiting the town of Nizwa and the old traditional Nizwa Market is something to experience before driving into the higher elevation of Jebel Akhdar. Local Omanis carrying their rifles, knives, fruits, vegetables, and animals for auction feel as though you have stepped back in time. Along the elevated drive stop in to see the oldest village with 300 years of history as a human settlement, Misfat Al Abriyeen. On the summit of Jebel Akdhar you have multiple hiking opportunities, mountain biking, wild camping, and Via Ferrata routes organized by two of the 5 star resorts located on this beautiful mountain summit. The area is often referred to as the Green Mountains due to the amount of green and flowers that bloom during a short segment of the year. This is a location I have been repeatedly, a great place for beautiful views and much cooler temperatures. #jebelakhdar


Muscat


The capital, a merge of old and modern hugging the coastline while the mountains provide a natural protection and observation of the area. There is so much to see and do in Muscat and within an hour drive in any direction there are wadis to hike, beaches to explore, seafood markets to dine in and historical facilities that tell the story of Oman. #visitoman

Oman is an adventurers paradise, tourism isn't over populated and there aren't rules preventing you from being opportunistic from instinct. There is much more to see like Snake Canyon rappelling, Wadi Bani Khalid, the Waken Village, the Sea Turtle Reserve near Sur, snorkeling with Whale Sharks near the Daminyant Islands, or boating with Dolphins in Dibba. Go alone, join a group, drive the country, or hire a guide and Oman becomes Oh-Man!. The best months to visit are between November-May. #jpcadventures


My recommendations for an Omani tour guide; https://www.omantripper.com/ and






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